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On The Runway
September 18, 2018

Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Longchamp & Staud at NYFW


From Calvin Klein's American movie inspiration to Longchamp's Parisian elegance
New York Fashion Week saw some incredible SS19 collections

Two iconic American movies, JAWS (1975) and The Graduate (1967) inspired Calvin Klein‘s collection concept and aesthetic. Both represent transgression, the idea of the predator, and a fundamental questioning of authority – a rebellion that is quintessentially American. “The landscape of America – literal and psychological – inspires Calvin Klein. A journey through America leads, inevitably, to the edge of the landscape: the beach. At the beach there is this incredible idea of beauty, but also a tension – between land and ocean, a feeling of two worlds meeting, maybe colliding. There’s a sense of the unexpected – and always, a temptation. For me, JAWS perfectly exemplifies these notions.” – Raf Simons. Also influencing the Spring 2019 collection is the sense of tension between different worlds and different environments: youth and maturity, female and male, hardship and privilege, rebellion and conservatism.

Elements of Carolina Herrera’s legacy were easily identifiable in Wes Gordon’s debut collection for Spring 2019. Her love of flowers is dramatic in the embroidery and her affinity for polka dots is featured throughout. “Some of my favorite photographs of Carolina Herrera are from the late seventies when she was about to start her company. The images exude her confidence, boldness and joy. It was a period of thunderous glamour and a time for women to express their most fabulous selves. This collection is a celebration of the moment in a woman’s life when she feels her more empowered” – Wes Gordon.

Vibrant silhouettes of ‘70s glamour, the Californian spirit and an audacious sense of Parisian elegance are at the core of Longchamp’s inspiration this season. For her first runway show, Creative Director Sophie Delafontaine makes a tribute to life-long admired aesthetics of inimitable tastemakers Anita Pallenberg and Veruschka seamlessly blended with the style of the universal Longchamp woman. It’s unexpected and effortless, evoking dreamy desert drives and late nights in L.A. — the kind of scenarios that call for airy feminine transparent animal print dresses on top of leather bikinis or fringed jackets worn over soft macramé dresses. The mixed and contrasted layering makes the styles incomparable. Ikat becomes a signature motif throughout the collection, printed on leather fringe and embroidered on delicate tulle fabrics.

For Spring 2019 Staud held its first runway show to debut the new collection, which was inspired by the 1976 film Fox Trot and the ease of seaside living. Designed to be taken from day to night, the ocean to the shore, and back again, the collection complements a wardrobe of classics: novelty shirting, soft dresses, and textured knits. Soft linen and crochet details refresh ubiquitous silhouettes while Staud’s signature dresses and jumpsuits get updated with embroidery and prints. The label extends its best-selling Shirley handbag into new colors and shapes and introduces the Hutton bag to its sculptural lineup.

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